BOOTMEN'S
TUTORIAL
Some basics
for bootmen
Frye Boots inspired many bootmen of today by
their style, looks, color choices, shaft height, sound of their
clunky heels when walking in them, and affordability.
According to Frye, the Frye Company is the oldest continuously
operated shoe company in the United States. (Notice the careful
choice of wording -- they no longer refer to themselves as a shoemaker
or bootmaker.) The company was founded in 1863 as the John A. Frye Shoe
Company in Marlborough (or Marlboro), Massachusetts, and continued to
produce their shoes and boots until the company was purchased by Reebok,
International, in 1987.
Reebok held the company only for two years. In 1989, they sold it
to a British holding company by the name of Hanson Industries. Hanson
licensed the Frye name to the Jimlar Corporation, based in Great Neck,
New York. Jimlar bought the Frye company name and assets from Hanson
outright in 1998. Boots continued to be made under the Frye name in
Massachusetts until 2003, when Jimlar closed the plant, and outsourced
bootmaking to China. Materials and workmanship have suffered.
What they once produced is highly favored all over the world, and
while today's version of their classics have similar looks, they just
aren't the same. Apparently the Frye Company heard the complaints
about only offering 12" boot heights and also now offer the 14" height
again in its campus boots, they still haven't (yet) responded to
requests to make their harness boots in 14" heights again.
Just what was it about Fryes that caused the development of many
Bootmen? The jury is out, but some factors include the appearance,
design, as well as the "boot clunk" made when walking in them. You
could always tell someone was wearing Fryes by the sound.
Many women took to wearing Fryes as well, and the styling of the
Campus Boot, in particular, has been copied by other women's bootmakers
and are still available today.
This was THE boot to have in the '60s and '70s. They were popular
among rockers, jocks, and geeks alike in high schools and colleges
across the United States. Frye Campus Boots of this era were 14" to 15"
tall, and came in a variety of color choices: Banana (a light tan),
Sunrise (medium tan), Saddle (dark tan), Olive (cool dark green), Russet
(redish-brown), Walnut (brown), and black.
The heels are wood and stacked to 2", with a rubber sole plate. The
soles of original campus boots are made of smooth leather. True vintage
Frye Boots will have only one Frye logo sewn on the inside of the left
boot shaft; boots made in the 1980s and thereafter have logoes sewn on
the inside of both boot shafts, as well as a Frye logo brand stamped on
the left and right heel.
Like their Campus Boot bretheren, Frye Harness Boots also have a
wood stacked heel to 2" with a rubber heel plate. Most have an all-
leather sole. A few styles of Frye Harness Boots were also made for bikers and have a rubber tread sole.
Vintage Frye Harness Boots were offered in Brown, Black and in Olive,
and for a short time, in a medium tan suede.
Vintage Frye Boots
Content from The New York Times and the Jimlar Company (on the web).
There are three traditional types of Vintage
Frye Boots:
Frye Campus Boots
In the 1960s, Frye reintroduced the
Campus Boot, from its 1860 original, featuring a bulky toe and chunky
heel that came to epitomize the attitude and the style of the 60s and
70s. There was nothing like the "new" Frye Boot on the market.
Frye Harness Boots
Frye's current Harness Boots are rooted
in tradition and continue to draw influence from the Cavalry.
Harness Boots have a square toe and
a non-adjustable system of four leather straps and two metal rings:
one strap goes across the top of the foot at the ankle, one strap wraps
around the rear of the foot at the ankle and two more straps rise from
sole on either side ankle. The four straps are held in place by the two
metal rings that are located on either side of the ankle. Vintage Frye
Harness boots have a pair of pull-straps on either side of the tops of
the shafts.
Frye Square-toed Boots
Also popular during the 1970s were a version of Frye
Boots that combined aspects of the Campus Boot and the Harness Boot. Frye
produced boots with a tall shaft like Campus Boots and square toe, but
without the harness. These boots also had the traditional Frye wood
stacked heel to 2" with rubber heel plate and smooth leather sole. They
were offered in brown, black, Banana, Sunrise, and Olive. They are not
offered any more by the Frye Company.
Frye Boot Catalogs of 1973 and 1975