BHD's response:

Thank you for your message. Sorry to hear about your accident and broken bones which have affected your ability to wear your Dehner boots. If you want to sell them, the best way to go about it is to clean them up well and give them a really good shine. Make 'em sparkle. Replace the laces and shine the buckles (if present).

Then if it is at all possible, find a friend who can model them for you while you take some pictures of them. Boots sell for more money when images of them show how they look on someone's feet and legs. Of course, for Dehners, the model should be wearing breeches or at least have whatever pants he has on tucked into them.

If it's not possible to have someone model them for you, stand them up in a well-lit place to take pictures.

Take these essential pictures of the boots (on a model or not):

(1) front of both boots;
(2) left side, left boot and right boot (both together);
(3) right side, left boot and right boot (together);
(4) back of both boots (show any sagging or creasing at the ankles)
(5) top of the feet (close-up, including bal-lacing);
(6) soles (to show what wear is there)
(7) inside of boot shafts from an oblique angle so you can read the Dehner imprint inside.

Then take measurements:

(1) height from the where the leather touches the heel to top of boot. This is the boot height (not from the bottom of the heel to the top)
(2) from heel to toe
(3) foot at widest part
(4) calf circumference -- not diameter of the shaft, but the distance around on the INSIDE of the boot shaft, at the top of the boot.
(5) height of heel

Note features:

(1) Bal-laced (or Dress Instep)

(2) Sole -- Nitrile, Vibram, or what? If Vibram, specify the Vibram sole number, which you can find simply by entering "Vibram soles" in a search engine.

(3) Any nicks, tears, gashes, or other permanent damage. Describe what the damage is and where it is, if any.

(4) Describe the break at the ankle. That is, does it sag a lot, a little, or is it still straight?

(5) Composition of the boots -- are they all leather? Depending on when you bought them, they may have a leather foot and Dehcord (Clarino) shafts. If you don't really know, that's okay. A lot of guys don't. Just note the serial number in the boot and then call or e-mail the Dehner Boot Company. Tell them that you are the owner of the boots and want information about them, including whether or not they are all leather or a combo leather/Dehcord product. They'll tell you. They keep track of all of their boots by their serial number.

(6) General appearance of the boots -- "mint" "excellent" "good" "fair" "well-used" "gently worn" ... whatever.

(7) anything else unique about them.

Then when you have all of that information, I suggest using eBay to sell them. You will more likely do better using eBay than Craigslist, because eBay has a world-wide reach, extensive buyer protection, and provides easy payment with a credit card or checking debit using PayPal, its subsidiary that enables simple financial tranactions. Yeah, Craigslist is free while there are selling fees associated with eBay and transaction fees associated from using PayPal, but their seller (and buyer) protections are worth it.

Before listing them, look up other sales of Dehner Boots on eBay, and see how the writer describes them. Use the ads that sound appropriate and accurate as models. By all means, do not leave anything out or be misleading. Serious boot-buyers on eBay can see through that in a heartbeat.

When you create your listing, pay the extra cost to include all of the photos you took. Since Dehners are often found on eBay, guys who would pay serious bucks for them will skip past ads that don't show many photos.

Always be sure to include the U.S. men's boot size in the title of your listing. If your boots are custom, say "approximately 10D" or whatever size you ordinarily wear in a standard, non-custom boot. Many users of eBay judge an item by its title ONLY, and skip past listings about boots that do not list a size in the title.

I recommend, but it's your decision, to make your sale open to not only buyers from the U.S., but also Canada, the U.K., Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Guys from the U.K. and Europe, in particular, covet those boots and it is more likely that you could get higher bids from guys who live overseas than here in the U.S. That's primarily because they do not have to pay import duty on used clothing from the U.S., but if they bought the boots new, they would have to pay a huge duty to import them, which creates a strong market for used boots in the U.K. and Europe.

BHD's response:

[At first, I was going to reply with something terse like, "what's a gay dude look like?", but then I thought about it, and said the following]

It's all a matter of self-perception. Campus boots were very popular in the 1970s and 1980s, but sort of went out of style after that. Most guys who wear boots these days wear harness boots, cowboy boots, hiking boots, or work boots. But it all boils down to how secure you are with yourself.

I don't mean this the wrong way, but if you are insecure or lack self-confidence, then you may think that wearing campus boots makes you appear a certain way to other people. Campus boots have a slightly higher heel than most average men's boots. Their rounded toe and general appearance shares similar features with some women's boots. Does having a rounded toe and 2" block heel make a man wearing the boots gay? I don't think so.

Frankly, I think you fear appearing effeminate. Not all gay guys are prissy queens. I certain am not. Don't take this the wrong way, but you should ask yourself if you are being affected by blatant stereotypes perpetrated by some closed-minded people.

Heck with it... wear what you like and don't give a darn about what others may say or think. That's THEIR problem, not yours, unless you choose to make it your problem.

The choice to wear campus boots has nothing to do with being gay or straight (actually or in appearance)... it has to do with self-confidence and self-perception.

Booted,

BHD

BHD's response:

Mildew is a common name for a variety of molds, which are ubiquitous in our environment. If mold has damaged your jacket, there is nothing you can do to eliminate the existing damage, but you can stop additional damage from happening.

First, lay the jacket on a table and using a slightly damp sponge, gently rub off as much exposed mildew that you can see. Clean the sponge regularly, as you don't want to spread around mold spores. (Wear gloves on your hands and consider a dust mask to protect yourself, too.) Do NOT use soap or detergent. Just water. (When you're done, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm water.)

Second, get Lysol or Clorox disinfectant wipes -- they come in a canister and you can find them at a well-stocked grocery or drug store. The active ingredient in these wipes working for you is a disinfectant whose chemical name is Alkyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride. N.B.: the active ingredient is not sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach). This chemical kills mold that is growing, but does not kill mold spores. That's why you should use many of the wipes when cleaning leather, so you don't spread the microscopic mold spores to other areas of your garment (and another reason to wear a mask, so you don't inhale the spores which can cause a nasty infection). Rub the wipes not only the directly-affected areas, but the whole jacket, since it is likely that spores are all over it.

While these wipes are convenient, an alternative is to dilute one cup (236ml) of denatured alcohol (not isopropyl or "rubbing" alcohol) to one cup of water, and paper towels. Dampen a paper towel in the solution, wring it out, and then use it as a wipe. Do not re-use a paper towel wipe, even though it may not look like anything is on it. Spores are there; you just can't see them. Alcohol kills growing mold, but also can dry out leather easily, so don't soak the leather in the alcohol solution.

Do not use any form of bleach or Lysol spray directly on leather. You'll ruin it.

Third, replace the natural oils in the leather by conditioning it. Use Lexol leather conditioner (or similar product) and following the directions on the container, gently treat the leather on the entire jacket -- front, back, sides, arms, inside the neck and any other exposed leather. Use a little bit and treat small areas, overlapping. Take your time. The more time you spend in applying conditioner slowly and evenly, the more likely the damage will be minimized and perhaps reduced to being unnoticeable.

Next, get a sturdy wooden hangar and hang the jacket in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight. Keep it away from air blowing from a duct, such as AC or heat. But if air doesn't naturally move in the room where you have hung it, put a small fan on the floor to circulate air in the room.

Let it dry for a day or two, and check it over again. You may need to use the wipes to clean off any more mold that might have regrown or that you missed before, and recondition any area on which you have used a disinfectant wipe.

Good luck,

BHD

BHD's response:

Dear David,

BHD's response:

Hello! Thank you for your message! I hope you have enjoyable travels in this big country of ours. Where are you going, if you don't mind my asking? If you will be anywhere near Washington, DC, perhaps we can meet for lunch or dinner some time.

BHD's response:

Hi, thanks for your message. I'll try to help out based on my own experience.

Considering your partner's foot size and that you said he complained about his foot sliding inside the boot and ultimately causing discomfort, I first suggest getting a pair of gel insoles, such as Dr. Scholl's massaging gel insoles. You can find them at most well-equipped drug stores, or even on-line. I have them in most of my boots that run large on me (like my Engineer Boots and Wescos). Those insoles make a world of difference when it comes to extended-wear comfort.

As for socks, what's important is to have a blend of cotton and wool (usually something like 65% cotton, 35% wool, but it can vary). Just DON'T get socks that are all acrylic. They wear out fast and get really hot! Get regular men's socks of the standard thickness -- not thin "dress socks" which are really nothing more than an ankle decoration and do nothing to provide comfort or foot support.

I know wool for socks sounds like the feet would get hot, but it is the best to wick away sweat, which makes the whole foot more comfortable. Some taller "boot socks" also have an acrylic or stretch ribbing along the top to hold the sock up on the leg. Well, that works until the socks are washed about 5 - 10 times, then eventually the stretch gives out and the socks may creep down the leg as the day goes on.

Honestly, you don't have to go to on-line retailers that charge $10/pair to find good quality socks. Tell you a secret, I get all my socks at my local KMart when they have the back-to-school sales in August. I pay about $4/pair for a package of 6 pairs of socks. And that's about all I need to replace on an annual basis.

And notice that I say "socks" and not "boot socks." Really, regular socks work just fine. I haven't had any problems with socks that go up the standard height (8" or so) on my leg. A boot sock goes up higher, but you don't really need that. It does nothing for the wearer nor improves comfort in any way.

I wear boots all the time, and I don't tend to wear out socks because of the insoles I use and the fact that I change boots and socks two or three times a day, so I'm not unduly wearing out the socks. I'd say I have about 30 pairs of socks (counting those purchased over the years) and only throw out socks once they get too worn or they being to fall apart.

I can't really recommend a specific manufacturer of socks. I have had good luck with plain old generic socks sold at KMart -- but the higher-end of what they have to offer, since the higher-end is a cotton/wool blend, not all cotton. If you really need to know a manufacturer, consider Gold Toe or Dickies. Both are very good. If you have moneyt to burn, then you can order hiking socks from REI, Cabellas, or Bass Pro Shops. But honestly, you really don't need to resort to that. Generic cotton/wool socks work just fine.

Hope this helps,

BHD

BHD's response:

Thanks for your message. I'm always glad to try to help. The skins of the boots in the photos you sent are back-cut Phython, with leather uppers. Fairly common.

I treat mine with Lexol exotic leather conditioner. You can find it at any shoe store, western store, or cobbler's shop. I get mine from a luggage repair shop that also resoles shoes.

Two things cause damage to scaled leathers:

1. water -- don't get them wet! The scales will curl and you can't straighten them out once they're curled.

2. central heat and air. Heating and cooling systems will dry them out, so you need to condition them from time to time.

Also, after wearing them wipe them off with a damp cloth before putting them away.

Hope this helps,

BHD

BHD's response:

There is no such thing as a "waterproof" boot. Some animal hides used on a boot are more resistant to water than others, but boots that get wet can be damaged fairly quickly -- not on the hide on the foot or shaft, but the threads that are used to connect the sole to the foot, and hold the rest of the boot together.

If you get boots seriously wet, eventually, the threads holding the boot together will decompose, rot, or break. Thus, the boot is ruined (completely resoling such a boot is more expensive than replacing it, usually.)

Now, if you are looking for a hide for a boot that might incur a bit of exposure to water, such as walking outdoors when it is raining, or through a few puddles, then that's different.

Most animal hides, like ostrich, calf or cow leather, and even snake (python, rattlesnake, etc.) are naturally water resistant. The tanning process used to make boots also makes them water resistant. Then you can always apply a topical treatment like Lexol Leather Conditioner and a light coat of wax, all of which will repel water.

In sum, almost any hide on a quality boot from a respectable manufacturer will be able to withstand wear and exposure to the elements, provided you give them a little care as described.

Comfort, on the other hand, has little to do with the hide on the outside of the boot, but rather, three very important factors that go into boot construction:

BHD's response:

Thanks for your message! I'm glad you have enjoyed your visit to my website, and thanks for the compliments.

I've been a biker for a long time, and I like to ride in leather, as well as wear it for day-to-day use and also at leather events.

Really, the only difference between breeches and leather pants, in general, is that breeches are designed to fit tightly along the bottom of your legs, so you can wear them with tall boots outside. In that regard, the breeches should come down to just above your ankle bone. If the length is longer than that, the leather at the bottom of the breeches could rub against your ankle bone and cause serious bleeding sores.

So considering your height and your usual length of jeans, for example, I would suggest breeches no longer than 30". Get the waist size as usual.

I also suggest you consider buying them from Northbound leather, in Toronto (www.northbound.com). They're very good, and make excellent products. It's always a good idea to get measured, anyway, and if you can't get there in person, ask them or visit their website for the measurements to take. And a word of caution: have someone else measure you. Seriously, it is not possible to measure yourself! A difference of a half-inch can make a big difference between getting something that fits and works with your gear, and something that doesn't fit well, you struggle with, and thus wouldn't wear as often due to discomfort.

And as a biker, I urge consideration of getting breeches just a little larger than you might ordinarily wear for denim jeans. When you sit on a bike and spread your legs, you need a little bit more room to maneuver and move your legs to operate the controls. You don't want the leather to be so tight as to restrict leg movement, which makes a huge difference if you have to make an emergency stop or lane-change. While tight leather looks hot on a tall, lean man such as yourself, it's impractical if you intend to use them for riding a motorcycle. Trust me on this one; I know from lots of experience. :-)

As for style -- with flares or balloons or none-of-the-above -- it really doesn't, as far as I know, mean a thing in the leather community. Some guys really like the "old style" breeches with flared or ballooned sides, and some don't. I have both styles. I find that breeches with ballooned sides often do not have front pockets. As a biker, I find front pockets to be highly desirable. It really is a matter of personal preference.

BHD's response:

Good to hear from you. [snip] ... about your Wescos... the bee oil is really a treatment that is meant mostly to protect the leather from water. Frankly, I haven't found much use for that stuff.

If you want to clean spots of dirt off your boots, I think you would find that Armor All or Weiman (another brand) Leather Wipes would work really well. They are cleaner-penetrated cloths that come in a canister and are sold at many automotive supply stores ('cause they are used for cleaning leather seats in cars) or even large supermarkets or Lowes, even.

Use them to clean off the major dirty spots. If you have something really bad, like caked mud with scuffs, simply use a wet wash cloth or rag and rub until the dirt comes off. If you have a really stubborn stain, you could get some saddle soap -- which is just that: soap. Use a wet cloth and a very little bit of saddle soap and then attack the dirt to remove it. You can find saddle soap where they sell shoe polish.

Once the boots are cleaned, you need to make sure that any residual soap or detergent is removed before applying a leather protector such as Hubberds (more later). The Leather Wipes have some kind of very mild detergent in them, as does, of course, saddle soap. Protectant products won't stick at all if there is any residual of soap or detergent on the leather.

The best way to make sure soap is removed is to use rubbing alcohol, which you can find in any grocery or drug store. Pour some of the rubbing alcohol on a rag and rub it over the boots. It won't hurt the leather at all, so don't be afraid to use it liberally.

Let the boots sit for about an hour (or overnight) to air out and completely dry.

Once they're dry, then apply a light coating of Hubberd's Shoe Grease. This is amazing stuff, and is designed especially for work boots. The leather of Wescos isn't the type that takes a shine using wax. You need a product that is less solid than wax, but has water-resistant properties. Grease is the product. Hubberd's Shoe Grease applied in a light coating and then rubbed with a cloth will make the boots look great and also protect the leather from water, snow, etc. You can find this product at shoe stores or via the internet. I have a small can and it has lasted me a long time -- a very little bit goes a long, long way.

I forgot to mention the other good thing about Hubberd's is that it is color-neutral, so it won't change the color of your boots as wax would do.

Hope this helps.

Best booted,

BHD's response:

Thanks for your message.

"Black Label" Fryes refer to Frye Boots that were made in the late 60's through the '70s. Sometime in the late '70s and thereafter, they changed the label to a gold color. Even the new Fryes made in China use a gold label. So if you really want to be assured in getting true "vintage" Fryes, go for the black label variety.

Regarding sizing, there are several issues when it comes to Fryes.

The foot size (for men) generally runs accurate, regardless of the year made. As they age and are worn, the foot tends to conform to the wearer, and the leather tends to stretch at the ball of the foot and sometimes at the arch, depending on the person's foot wearing them. Generally speaking, if a size 10D Frye (or for that matter, any other boot) is worn by someone with a wider foot than a standard "D" width, the boot leather will stretch and could well be a 10-1/2. If the foot of the wearer wasn't that wide (or flat), then it will generally remain true-to size.

So that's the reason for a suggestion for ordering a half-size down. Boots worn by other people will likely have stretched some in the foot.

The biggest issue when it comes to sizing is the calf. True "vintage" older Fryes had a calf size that was about a 1/2" or so wider than Fryes made about 1985 or later -- especially the new ones made now in China since Frye began outsourcing production overseas several years ago. The 1985 and newer Fryes have a narrower calf -- say about 15-1/2", while the older vintage Fryes had a calf size of about 16". For some people, that can make a big difference.

For example, someone sent me a new pair of Fryes as a gift. Even though they were only 12" tall, I couldn't wear them on my 16-1/2" calfs. They were too tight, and just hurt my legs.

Measure the circumference of the calf about 12" above the ankle of the intended wearer. If the calf circumference is more than 16", which tends to be true for men over age 45 or so (ahem..., that's me), then the boots might not fit in the calf and will be uncomfortable if squeezed on.

It's always possible to have boots stretched by a cobbler, but the stretching of a leather-lined boot like a Frye can only go so far -- about 1/4" - 3/8".

One other thing -- unlike the foot of a leather boot, calfs of leather boots don't stretch by wearing. They aren't flexed and flattened by wear as a foot of a boot is.

Frye Boots these days are made in China. The original Frye Boot Company of Massachusetts was bought out by a conglomerate that is headquartered on Long Island, New York. The boots are outsourced for manufacturing in China. They are nowhere near the quality that they were when they were made in the USA. I don't recommend buying new Fryes. Go for vintage if you can find them.

Hope this helps. Thanks for asking.

BHD's response:

Thank you for your message. I am just a normal guy, but I wear boots. That's all.

You asked many questions, and I will try to answer them. I will repeat your question and then provide my answer after.

> would like to know how you started with boots, the age of your first pair

When I was a child, I spent part of my time on a horse farm. I was given boots to wear on the farm. I liked them. I returned to the city (Washington DC) and continued to wear the boots. I just liked them. I have been wearing boots since I was 10 years old.

My mother tried to get me to wear shoes, and I just told her that I preferred boots. So she would get me boots. That was it.

> when you starting buying your big collection

After I got a job when I was in college, about age 18. I would save money and buy boots when I could. Not that many -- about two or three pairs per year. But back then, boots were not as expensive as they are now. You could get very good quality boots for US$20/pair back in 1976.

I also bought my first motorcycle when I was 20 years old. I wore boots of course when I rode my motorcycle.

Everyone I knew expected to see me in boots. They just became what we call here in the U.S., "my trademark." That is, people would see me, look at my feet, and see boots. That was it. I never felt badly or self-conscious about wearing boots.

> how did you know you always wanted to be all the time with boots?

I really can not explain it. I just knew that I liked how boots felt on my feet and legs and how they looked. I did not wear shorts -- I always wore long pants. Since I always wore long pants, I did not have any reason to wear sneakers or sandals. Boots went fine with long pants.

> I want to hear some experience because in the city boots are not commonly use and I want to listen something of your beggining may be it can give me some tips to make my passion grow such as you.

I do not live directly in a city. I live outside a city, in the suburbs. However, boots are not common at all in Washington, DC. There are no reasons to wear them. No farms. No ranches. Nothing. I just wear boots. I do not care if other people do not wear boots. I do not care what other people wear at all. I just like what I like. I do not judge others and do not feel badly if others look at me oddly. That is their problem, not mine.

Wearing boots has not been a problem for me to get a good job, go to work, and get promoted in several positions. I speak a lot in public at big events. No one judges me because of what is on my feet.

You do not need to worry about what other people think. If you like boots, then wear them. That has been my attitude since I was your age, and I have prospered and lived well. You can do the same.

I hope this helps. Write again if you have more questions.

Best in boots,

BHD