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Wearing Cowboy Boots

This is a brief pictorial description of cowboy boots and jeans. What is written below are my opinions, and come from a perspective of American culture. I wear cowboy boots most every day, but these days, not on horses. I wear them to work, with slacks and even suits sometimes, as well as just kickin' around the neighborhood.

Outside or Inside Jeans?

There seems to be a lot of people who have opinions about wearing jeans inside boots or not. The general day-to-day opinion is that guys wear jeans over boots. While many photos of my cowboy boot collection on my website show me with jeans tucked into the boots, those photos were made to show the boots for purposes of the website. The photos don't really show how I ordinarily wear my boots with pants over.

Some people make snide remarks about the character of guys who wear jeans inside boots. My feeling is, "heck, if you have nice boots and want to show them off, then by all means, do so!" But for ordinary day-to-day wear, jeans over is the way to go with one exception: Buckaroo boots.

Tall Buckaroo boots are made to be worn by cowboys when working on horses on a farm or ranch. The boots are designed to be shown. In this case, tuck your jeans in. Otherwise, don't.


Stacked Jeans

People have asked me what "stacked jeans" really means. What is illustrated in the photos is just that -- the jeans are long enough to come down to the foot of the boot, but not so long as to drag on the floor behind the heel. The jeans may form a soft fold along the foot of the boot. That is "stacked jeans" -- simply, the jeans are long enough to stack (or fold) on top of the boot foot.


Length of Jeans

Your jeans should come down to the foot of the boot, and if necessary, be a little longer to form the "boot stack" fold on the foot. The back of the jeans should not drag on the floor. While to some guys, frayed ends of jeans is a stylistic choice, for most cowboys, finished hems that meet the back of the heel and top of the foot are preferred.

Note that denim is made of 100% cotton, and cotton shrinks when washed a number of times -- even if washed in cold water. Expect pre-washed (or "pre-shrunk") denim jeans to shrink about 3/4" to 1" (1.9cm to 2.5cm). Having jeans be a little longer at first is preferable to jeans that are shorter, so even when the jeans shrink, they will still stack nicely at the foot of the boot.

Cowboys wear jeans that stack. If jeans cover the shaft of the boot but do not come down to the foot, then the jeans are not the correct fit. Real cowboys call short jeans "high-waders" and other names. In the U.S., jeans that don't stack are considered "goofy" or odd. (Or worse.)

Straight-Leg, Boot Cut, Flare, Bell Bottom?

This is a personal choice, but most guys choose straight-leg or Boot Cut jeans. The differences between these styles is rather minor. When buying jeans, read details on the width of the opening at the foot. Most cowboy boots have a 16" or 16-1/2" circumference. The jeans should be at least as wide as that.

Flare and Bell Bottom Jeans are relics of the 1970s. While jeans with these leg openings may still be available, they are seldom worn except for nostalgic purposes. Real cowboys usually wear straight-legged jeans.


Color of Jeans

Again, this is a personal choice. Most jeans are from medium to dark blue. It's also common to find men wearing black jeans. There are other colors available: brown, green, khaki, and even white. Most guys in the U.S. wear jeans that are blue or black. Blue jeans go especially well with cognac or tan boots. You may occasionally see men wearing brown or khaki (beige) jeans. Cowboys do not wear jeans in other colors, such as green, red, yellow, or white.

Wranglers, Levis, or designer jeans?

Cowboys, especially those who ride horses, and Bikers (those who ride iron horses), prefer Wranglers because the heavier, "rolled" seam on Wranglers is on the outside of the legs (to reduce rubbing in the saddle) while Levis have the heavier, bulkier seam on the inside of the legs. The seam can rub against the leg while riding a horse or motorcycle. Levis were popular years ago. But since their production was moved outside the U.S. in 1996, the quality is not in the product like it once was. And designer jeans? FuggetAboutIt. Unless you're on a fashion runway, save your money and get Wranglers. Masculine men -- gay or straight -- wear regular-old straight-legged blue jeans. (Don't even ask about how silly baggy and low-rise jeans look on adult men.)

(Photos and some content courtesy of DaveM, used with his permission.)


Leather Jeans and Cowboy Boots?

While some guys like the look of leather jeans and cowboy boots and can pull off the look well, generally speaking, leather and cowboy boots don't mix. If you do choose to wear cowboy boots with leather jeans, then stack the jeans over the boots (not tuck the leather inside the boots) and wear cowboy boots of the same color as the jeans -- usually black. Anything else makes the boots stand out and draws attention to differences. You want people to look at your face, not be distracted by an odd combination at your feet.


Do Men Wear Cowboy Boots with Suits?

Yes, good-looking leather or subdued exotic boots (such as python, ostrich, or cobra in dark colors like black, brown, or black cherry) go fine with a business suit. Many men, particularly in the U.S. Midwest, wear boots with suits regularly. I do, as well -- that is, when I have to wear a suit, which isn't often. Nonetheless, if you like boots and you have to dress up, then wear dress cowboy boots. Just make sure that there is not a company dress code policy that gives specific instructions about footwear. Usually, nobody says a thing and the only person concerned about it is someone who is insecure about his footwear choices. If you like boots, then wear 'em. Don't worry about what others may say or think. That is their problem, not yours.

How to Put on Cowboy Boots

Yep, I've been asked that, too. Simply: put on your jeans, then sit down. Lift the fabric of each leg one-at-a-time, and pull on the boot. Pull the fabric of the jeans over the boot. Repeat with the other foot. If the boots have laces that need to be tied, then tie them. Stand up. You're done.


Jeans Inside Cowboy Boots

As stated above, it is not often that one wears jeans inside cowboy boots, but I have been asked from time to time how to get jeans to stay down inside boots while wearing them. Here's how I do it.

First, pull the jean fabric in the back and bottom of the leg taught. You will wrap the fabric to the side of your ankle. Pulling it from the back and wrapping it from there will keep the seams of the jeans in line with the side seems of the boot, making a neat appearance.

Next, I use an elastic band with hook-and-loop (Velcro® brand) fastening closure to hold the pants leg in place. I put it about 2" above the bottom of the pant leg. These elastic bands are called "boot blousers" and are available from Quartermaster Uniforms and almost any Army/Navy Surplus store. They are made to keep military boots inside BDUs but work fine for this purpose, as well as for wearing tall black boots with a uniform or leather if you pants do not have tapered legs.

Once I wrap and connect the boot blouser, I pull the pants leg fabric down toward my foot.

I then fold the fabric below the boot blouser above the blouser, and then pull the whole pant leg down again to make it taught. If done right, the boot blouser will be right below the ankle bone. (You don't want it right on top of the ankle bone, because it will rub inside the boot and may cause a sore.)

Pull the Boot on.

Tuck remaining loose pants leg fabric inside the boot.

Repeat with the other foot and Boot

Pull the boot on.

And there you have it -- jeans inside cowboy boots!


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